Now, let’s talk about why your snow photos look gray and not white.

I’ll try not to be too technical. Cameras set to auto mode meter for “normal exposure” which is about 18% medium gray which is considered “normal exposure”. However, white is lighter than 18% medium gray and black is darker than 18% medium gray. It’s up to the photographer to find the “correct exposure” instead of letting the camera choose “normal exposure” for you. Professionals shoot in manual mode and make these exposure adjustments, but if you are not a professional and more comfortable shooting in auto mode, you can adjust for this too by simply using the exposure compensation button and change your exposure to lighter or darker one stop of light at a time rather than thinking about adjusting all your settings manually.

Use your manual to review the  types of meters in your camera manual and set the dial to spot meter which will measure specifically where the spot in your view finder is placed. It’s more precise than some of the other metering systems) A good starting point and reference when you are outside is to measure off the green grass which is normal exposure 18% medium gray and adjust if your subject is lighter or darker, paying attention to detail in highlights and shadows. As I was photographing the snow scenes in my neighborhood this week, I metered for the correct exposure of the snow so that it was truly white and still keep the detail by not overexposing and blowing out the highlights. This was about 1 – 2 stops over “normal exposure” that the camera would have determined on auto mode. Using this method is why the snow in my images looks white and not gray.

Another example… if I am photographing a light skinned Caucasian, I use a spot meter and meter off their cheek or forehead and open up (lighten) 1 stop for correct exposure. For a dark skinned African American, I use a spot meter in camera, meter off their cheek or forehead and close down (darken) one stop or keep it right at 18% medium gray normal exposure. 

Ansel Adams first identified the zone system, but it has been taught by many photographers since then, including my favorite teacher and mentor Bahman Farzad who wrote a book called The Confused Photographer’s Guide to Photographic Exposure and the Simplified Zone System. It’s still sold on Amazon and I highly recommend it. When I took his photography class 20 years ago everything about light measurement through my camera begin to make sense for me. He taught me to use my spot meter and it’s still what I use on every shoot.  Try to envision a color scene in shades of black and white and it will help you determine your camera’s correct exposure for your subject or scene. Here are some helpful diagrams.